review by Janine Pulford
Its reputation had gone before it, because within a few weeks of opening, this contemporary Indian and Nepalese restaurant, a sister to the one in Wareham was fully booked at weekends. Owner Madhav said he was pleased that the Broadstone community had welcomed The 29029, (the height of Mount Everest), with such enthusiasm.
Seating over 60, the restaurant was almost half full by 7.30pm on the Tuesday we visited, and the babble of happy chatter was welcoming.
The next treat for the Pulford senses was the menu with many fresh and exciting dishes from India and Nepal.
It was time for something different. Even the poppadums were in unusual shapes and the sauces vibrant with a new twist: mango with roasted cumin seeds was one, and onion with strawberry and tomato salsa another.
Mo:Mo: Nepalese style dumplings stuffed with lamb mince. These ‘melt in the mouth’ parcels of heaven offered a hint of Nepalese spices and were served with grilled tomato and sesame seed chutney. The steamed dumplings were much enjoyed by Ben, who savoured the flavours of spring onion, ginger and soya which combined lovingly with the minced lamb.
Shole-Madras-Ka: A visual crispy fried lentil dumpling feast was put before me. Topped with pepper and thyme flavouring dressed with tamarind, the colours sprang off the plate and dumplings peeped out looking like mini donuts. I was delighted to discover a light, almost sponge-like consistency that blended exquisitely with the dressings and pops of pomegranate seeds and peppery rocket leaves. Flavour couldn’t be faulted and it was a starter with everything from presentation, colour, softness, spiciness and crunch.
Ghurka Style Lamb: stir fried Welsh lamb with fresh coriander, coconut, garlic, red onion and peppers, served with mossala mashed potato and herbed salad. Date and ginger naan. Ben had nothing but praise for the dish which he described as bold and full of flavour with warming spices that kept on giving. The lamb was tender and had a sticky glaze; broccoli offered crunch and the mashed potato was something else – beautifully spiced, it was the nugget of gold on the plate and I was compelled to steal a bit. The naan was deliciously different with a crispy crust.
Nepalese Machha Special: marinated monkfish cooked with crusted mustard, touch of garlic, ginger and fresh coriander. A side dish of home-style lemon rice. I could write a poem about this dish it was so delish:
With its crunchy veg
And hot curry sauce,
The star of the show,
The monkfish of course,
Was soft and divine
Trapped a moment in time
I never will forget – and yet
There was more
A fresh lemon slice and a side of rice
Plus green salad leaf
This dish is a thief –
of the heart
When you eat food that sets your creativity on fire, you know you will return for more
Before we left, Tony Millward arrived at the table beside us. He eats regularly at the Wareham 29029 restaurant, but this was his first visit to Broadstone and he couldn’t praise the food enough.
The industrious staff were polite. There’s a good wine list as well as Ghurka beer, which Ben praised out loud, and of course a take-away menu. The restaurant is clean and comfortable with subdued lighting and includes a fascinating colour change water feature.
If you’re excited by new tastes and want somewhere exhilarating to dine, climb to the peak with The 29029 Restaurant. I feel sure you won’t be disappointed. Booking is essential at weekends.